Thickness is determined the same way you would make a decision about what kind of paper to use. Mid-weigh or lighter seems to work best for most projects, but I have seen some pieces where the foundation was made of burlap or hessian, with finer fabrics used on the surface.

Open-weave fabrics can be more difficult to handle, they fray worse (sometimes an asset), and they can leave more of a texture (also can be an asset), but they can flex more if that's what you need. Thin, tightly-woven fabrics act more like paper and give a smoother surface.

Fabrics from organic sources are best (cotton, wool, silk, linen, jute, etc), as they will absorb the adhesive and bond well.  Beware of polyester and other synthetics. Polyester is really a type of plastic, and can have the same effect with adhesives: not sticking, or delaminating. If you want to try using something synthetic or part synthetic, make a test first, let it dry VERY thoroughly, then pick at it to check how tightly adhered it is.

Personally, I tend to find that squares or rectangles are fine for less intricate designs, and triangles for curvier ones. Size must fit placement area, or it tends to wrinkle where the excess flares out. I find strips harder to handle. (That could be a Law of Cloth Mache, or it could be lack of manual dexterity...). ;-)

Tip:  brightly-colored silk blouses from thrift shops, cut in pieces, are wonderful decorative surface accents, for both cloth and papier mache.

Sue

Hey Kris,  I bought Dans  great book.  Tells me all about the way he uses cloth mache.  I am very impressed. This technique works well in large works, but as I live in a small space I will adapt his method to small works.(not that this impedes the use of cloth, but small dragons won't take over my space quite as much).  I am stoked.  Thank you so much Kris and Sue for your help (and Dan).  The world is now my oyster (in my head)  Happy Easter to All.

Hey again,
I've been busy.  Hard to find time to do anything fun lately.  About the cloth thing, I really like old bed sheets.  Honestly, the older the better (even yellow stains are fine).  The ones I treat like gold are the ones that are so worn that I can tear them with my fingers.  Those sheets I covet and use only for faces where I need detail.  I used to get these sheets at thrift stores (is that what they're called in the UK?).  But over here they have become harder to come by.  These second hand stores now seem to only sell newer sheets.  I'll bet they throw away the really old ones.  I swear I'm going to ask them sometime if that's true and have them save the really nasty ones for me.   Anyway (sorry for the tangent), I tear them into strips of varying widths first.  Fold them in half, then quarters etc, and pull off the strings.  Then cut the folds with scissors.  The nice thing about tearing is that when the pieces are applied, you can barely even see a seam.  The tearing allows the frayed ends to sit nicely.   I soak them in white glue (usually full strength) and apply.  I like to have lots of sizes ready before I start.  It's just a hassle cutting more with wet hands.   Hence to great part about sheets that you can tear with your fingers while your hands are still wet.

I hope this helps.  Keep up the art, master of more that she thinks.
Dan

Dan, wherever you are, there must be a Freecycle. Post that you want old, thin bedsheets (torn okay), and I'll bet you'll get enough to cover a large house.

Sue

I was just curious of the strength of cloth mache to papier-mache. Is the cloth super strong, or is there not much difference between the two?

WOW!! I was just getting ready to say that I had purchased Dan's book and I could buy you a copy and send it to you, but looks like you already got it and low and behold Dan himself is here! GREAT BOOK!!! Wonderful techniques for large projects. He also gave me some ideas for my 'lizard fairy-thingy" do you remember me Dan? Still not exactly sure what I want to do with her, but you most definitely gave me some new insights! I just love soakin' me up some good information!

Last edited by skwirl (2008-11-12 03:54:52)