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We are planning a memorial service for a dear friend who recently passed away and was cremated. The funeral home had some lovely -- but expensive -- biodegradable leaf-shaped and shell-shaped "floating urns." You place some of the ashes and a few flowers on the "floating urn" and place it in the body of water. The urn floats for a few minutes and then sinks into the water. Do you think creating something similar out of paper mache would work for this? I would appreciate any thoughts or ideas you might have as to the best way to do this. Thank you for any help you may be able to provide.
Carol
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A most interesting challenge. Most of my experience with thin structures of paper mache would not dissolve so as to sink in “a few minutes".
I see two main issues to deal with:
1. A relatively quick way to flood the floating urn.
2. Enough weight once flooded to sink quickly.
A few ideas to flood the floating urn quickly might be to put many small holes in the PM floating urn filled with solid bar soap. Experimentation with hole diameter and the number of holes and thickness of the soap or some other water soluble solid would determine the flooding rate. The outer diameter of the leaf or its “veins�� (or perhaps both) can be made of low carbon steel (like metal coat hangers in the US) to add weight. These rings will rust and dissolve in a few months.
I bought 100 survey flags in a large DIY store for under $10 US dollars that are 21“ long and .060" (1.5 mm) in diameter ( thinner than a coat hanger ) That I use for PM model armatures and many other things.
Another idea might be larger holes in the floating urn but covered with tissue paper and a very thin layer of paper mache glue like the flour and water mix. The ratio of flour to water for time to dissolve to be determined again by experimentation. If these larger holes were created with rings of low carbon steel they will rust and dissolve in a few months after sinking.
Sand mixed with glue could be used to replace the metal rings for weight and could be colored to fit the design of the floating urn. The ratio of flour to water could be varied to make it dissolve slower than the material used to fill the holes perhaps mixed with some white glue ( PVA).
Incorporating small stones or pebbles to replace the metal rings and sand into your design.
Just some thoughts off the top of my head to help get the creative juices flowing.
Bob C.
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Bob makes very good sense. I expect you realise that you have to boil up the flour/water mix to make the paste. Normally I would say 'don't use it' but for this purpose it would be ideal. Probably only three layers of newsprint type paper would be enough and some small holes would allow progressive ingress of water. I don't think you would need to go as far as using soap.
DavidO
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If the leaf appears to 'dissolve' in the water, it may be made from paper fibers in the form of paper pulp. I think that type of papier mache may absorb water faster than strips or sheets of paper.
A white cotton-based paper, perhaps such as watercolor paper, torn into small pieces could be cooked and then whirled in a blender (liquifier?) to form the pulp. The fiberous liquid could then be poured over a screen, allowed allowed to drain, transferred to a piece of fabric, then manipulated into the form of a leaf or shell while still damp, or applied to a mold. You could add some adhesive (wheat, rice or potato flour might be best) to the water while still liquid; some would remain with the fibers and help to bind them together.
Sue
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I think your right Sue! I've been pondering this all day, and your explination seems to be the most feasible. They are probably made like thin egg cartons. It seems so obvious once someone else points it out LOL
Joey
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Sue's thought to use paper pulp to make papier mache clay light seems like a good one to me too.
The reason I went on about adding weight (small stones, metal rings, pebbles or sand) was to eliminate any floating debris that could remain so as to not distract from the meaningful image of the flower and any cremains that might be floating on the water after the urn sinks.
The same for the different dissolution times of the main body of the urn as compared with quick to dissolve "holes" covered with tissue paper, soap or Sue's paper pulp idea. The thought was to sink the urn 1st and have it dissolve out of sight under water.
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I've found a site that sells one in the shape of shell that indicates it's made of cast paper (mulberry paper, actually) and/or clay. You could add some clay powder to the paper pulp mixture to make it a smoother end result.
http://www.funeral-urn.com/understandin … -urns.aspx
There's another site that does them in the shape of dinghys (boats) that mentioned it includes 'integral ballast' to ensure sinking.
http://seacaseurn.com/seacaseconcepts.html
I gather ballast basically means weight, but when I first read it I assumed it was a hollow chamber on the bottom of the urn that would fill with water first, thus sinking the urn. Pelletor's idea of holes would work for this section.
The urns also all say they come with a biodegradable bag for the remains ... to keep them contained while sinking ... then it dissolves in the water.
I'd also suggest making a 'test' urn or a couple to make sure your paper/clay/whatever mixture sinks at the rate you want, and doesn't break up on the surface of the water.
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What a wonderful group! Thanks to all of you for your ideas and guidance in helping me with this project. I've not a lot of experience with PM but have been a "crafter" all of my life, so hope I can be successful with this tribute to my best friend. I will definitely be experimenting and trying your suggestions -- fortunately, I have a month before the ceremony, so I'm hopeful I can come up with a working model by then. Again, thanks for your help.
Carol
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You're welcome!
DavidO et al
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'Ballast' also means weight, enough to keep the boat right-side up and more stable in any breeze. It would ruin the ambiance if the wind caught it and just flipped it over the top of the water and it landed on its side or upside down.
Another fine fiber material that is more easily available is bathroom tissue, so you might try an experiment or two out of that and an organic adhesive (grain or potato flour)-- and don't overdo the adhesive, a light touch for this would be best.
But use the absolute cheapest kind you kind find, with the fewest additives (aloe is water-resistant, which you wouldn't want).
And don't use any kind of synthetic adhesives like PVA/white glue or even methyl cellulose/cellulose, as it tends to resist rewetting after it dries.
The trick with this kind of papier mache is wanting it to absorb water and dissolve, which are two things you DON'T want to happen to other kinds of PM!
Good luck with your project and the memorial.
Sue
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