You are not logged in.
I'm pretty much new to papier mache (well, I'm not gonna count grade school art projects anyways) and would really appreciate whatever help the more experienced can offer. I'm into costuming and recently decided papier mache is the medium I'd like to use to accent my latest undertaking. What I'd like to know is this: I want to papier mache over a plastic breastplate of costume armor but am concerned as to whether or not it will adhere permanently to the plastic. Will papier mache or papier mache clay stick well to slick plastic pieces or should I prep the armor with something beforehand? Would it be better to use a flexible piece of foam armor instead? What are the basic guidelines to follow when choosing the best armature to use as a permanent piece of the finished product? Thanks to any who can find the time to answer...
Offline
Why do you want to keep the plastic piece as part of the armor? Paper mache can hold its own very well, if enough layers are used.
As far as just covering one side of the plastic, I'm sure there are adhesives that may hold, but I'm afraid you would always run the risk of separation, especially of the piece is to be worn.
If you wish to keep the plastic piece, your best bet may be to cover it front and back with paper mache strips, basically enclosing it. For armor, I found that using 8-10 layers of strip, covered by a layer of mash makes for a very tough piece, and allows for sculpting of the mash to create details.
Sounds like an interesting project. What type of armor are you creating?
Offline
I'm not really clear whether you want it to stick permanently to your plastic armour or not. What PaperSoup advises is good. Another method would be to cover the surface in masking tape, then laminate paper onto that, with further moulding in pulp if you want. If you want to be able to release the paper form, you might cover the plastic with tinfoil, then masking tape, then paper laminate. That way, once cut along the edge, it would remove easily. It should follow the contours of the plastic bodyplate quite well too.
DavidO
Offline
Paper Soup and David covered the main possibilities quite well. The problem with directly attaching to plastic with an adhesive is that plastics can be tricky for permanence. Some adhesives (even ones used for plastic in general, but not the particular plastic you're using -- and how would you know?) stick well in the beginning, but the adhesive and the plastic sometimes will work against each other, and eventually separate.
Just using the plastic armor as a mold can work very well, as described above. Using a 'hard' paper (like copier paper) works quite well to create a firm shell, while softer papers like newspaper and paper towels make a softer shell that is more likely to flex if you don't use a strong adhesive and quite a few layers.
Creating a small sample could give you a good idea: take a jar and wrap it with plastic wrap (cling film). Then cut/tear some paper into pieces that will cover most of half the jar (almost top to bottom, and halfway around). Apply about three layers of papier and adhesive and put in a warmish place to dry. When dry, carefully lift it off the jar. Check the rigidity to see if it is near to what you will need (a large piece like armor may need more layers to support the size). If it isn't solid enough for your purposes, attach the piece you made to the jar with a bit of glue, just enough to hold it in place, then add another three layers. Recheck strength when dry. Once you reach the point where you're near strength you need, start applying your paper to your armor mold. Dry thoroughly (mild heat or just set it in front of a fan), and then test it gently to see if you've got enough layers for your planned use.
Once you've got the strength right, you can add stuff for building up a design (if you want it).
Sue
Offline
Thanks guys! I'm shying away from a purely papier mache piece and would rather have the armor armature as a permanent base because the breastplate will be worn next to the skin. Since I live in South Florida and the costume will be worn during an outside Renaissance festival, I doubt papier mache stands a chance against the bucket loads of sweat generated under the hot Florida sun (even if a thin cloth lining were worn underneath).
Basically, I am going with a fae/fairy/wood elf theme and instead of your typical glittery, butterfly-wing sparkle fairies I aim to create costumes with a more feral, organic, inhuman feel to them. Along with shin and arm guards, the breastplate will be part of a warrior costume for my boyfriend and I plan to use a combination of paper strips and celluclay to make the armor appear as if it were formed out of twisted wood or some other organic substance.
I think I may have to go with a foam rubber breastplate as the base instead of the one made out of rigid plastic because I need something a bit more flexible since his chest and shoulders are so broad. Does papier mache adhere to foam rubber a bit better than plastic or should I prep it with masking tape just to be safe?
Offline
I understand your concerns. Your plans sound very creative and imaginative.
Once again, with the foam, you're dealing with plastics. One of the few adhesives that I've used with plastics that (so far) seem to stick is the GOOP brand. Read the indications as to what it's best used for, as they have more than one.
Even though you don't want PM on the inside, I would wrap the PM around edge so it clings to the foam, which would probably help prevent the whole thing from pulling apart all at once (if at all).
If you are using a rubbery type of foam (like an exercise mat or the kind that goes under a sleeping bag), the foam will flex and the PM won't, so you will probably want to form the foam into the shape you want. For curves, cutting out narrow Vs and then using adhesive to butt the ends together should work fine (start quite narrow and widen the Vs as you're fitting the pieces. The GOOP adhesives are contact adhesives, so follow the directions carefully. You could probably use masking tape to hold the pieces firmly until set.
If you're using a rigid foam, I would advise getting the more expensive insulation foam that is used in building (usually blue or pink, different thicknesses). It is far easier to handle and cut than regular styrofoam (use a serrated knife), and makes less of a mess (somewhat -- it's all messy). For creating curves in that, you'll probably need to fit separate pieces together. There is a special foam adhesive for them (the solvents used in most other adhesives will melt the foam, but I haven't tried GOOP on these). Both the rigid foams and their adhesives are usually available in building supply stores, incl. HD and Lowes (U.S.)
If you get any photos, it would be wonderful if you would post them in the gallery and let us know here on the forum how they turned out.
Sue
Offline
I think the foam will be infinately hotterr than PM alone. I live in south Texas where we have pretty tough humidity as well, and i can't imagine having foam next to me. As Cat mentioned, foam is used as an insulator. Wrapping foam, even the flexible kind around your body would be like wearing one of those sauna suits! I would hate to see a member of the fae folk pass out from heat stroke!
If you seal it well, paper mache should be able to hold up very well against sweat. I know that there are theatre masks that have been worn on stage, under intense lighting, and hold up fine. As with real armor, maintenance would be important. Such as reapplying the sealant occasionally, if the thing were to be worn a great deal.
A thin layer of cloth. That would be a great idea to help absorb some of the moisture. Just let the cloth dry out between wearings.
Paper mache does have a bit of flex to it, but as with any armor, it it limited in it's mobility. So the flexibility of the foam underlayment would still be limited by the flexibility of the PM layer over it.
I have some pictures of a Xena breastplate and backplate that I created over in the gallery. My daughter wore it through several Halloween parties, including one at her karate school that included being struck by a bo staff and other weapons of destruction LOL. It held up really well.
I also have some Work in Progress of the pieces on flickr, if you want to see a little better how it was made. They are under my paper_soup account.
Good luck with it. It sounds really cool!
Joey
Offline
Oh I just had another idea. If this piece is to be worn next to bare skin, there is some stuff that is used beneath wraps and casts. It is actually a very thin and porous foam and come in rolls like gauze and is designed to absorb moisture. You could probably find it at a large sporting goods store or maybe pharmacy. That applied to the back of the PM might help with the heat and resulting sweat.
Here's what I found on a quick Google check.
http://www.carepathways.com/estore-cat- … ing%20Foam
Offline
The Papier Mache Resource All content copyright © 2000 - 2024 the respective authors. Mentions in the media