Yes, you certainly can do it that way.

There are several methods that you can use, just try them and see which works best for you.  Two inches is a lot of PM!

You can apply a release agent to the original form, or just apply the first complete layer on your mold without adhesive, just moist paper. This will prevent the PM from sticking to the mold.

You can dip the strips in water, drain, apply adhesive to the strip  and apply the strips.

You can apply adhesive to dry strips (both sides) and then apply them, smoothing well.

You can get your PM started, then apply adhesive to the previous layer and then apply the paper strip (moist or dry), smooth it down, then apply adhesive to the top of that and repeat.

I would lay down about three layers of PM and let it dry. It it seems like it would hold it's shape with just those layers, slit the PM and remove the mug. Apply more strips to seal the cut.

Apply more strips, and I would make them only damp with adhesive so they don't soak the first set of strips and distort them.  You could probably apply three layers before having to stop, but you might get away with more.

It's going to be a slow project to get it two inches thick.

Good luck!

Sue

PLEASE forget the two inches and just build it until you have the strength you want.  That might be in just six layers of paper.

Sue mentions cutting the dried laminate after about three layers.  This is because the paper will shrink as it dries and become a very tight fit.  As long as you avoid wetting it too much, you MIGHT be able to just pull it off.  Another way would be to lay one layer of clingfilm over the original.  You will still have to lay one layer of paper without paste first so that it doesn't stick.  The advantage of this method is that the laminate you produce cannot stick to the original.  When that happens it is a real pain to get off and often impossible without breaking the whole thing apart.

Yet another variation would be to stick a layer of thick office paper round the original, held to itself by sticky tape.  Then the clingfilm etc.  That way you are sure to be able to get the whole thing off and slide it back on the original for finishing.

You could try incorporating a couple of layers of kraft paper.  This does need moistening first - but only damp, not wet.  It is very strong and binds well.

We look forward to hearing how you get on.
DavidO

I cut some of my shapes off molds, like when i use a bowling ball, or need to make something large. Mostly i leave the bottle or what i'm using ,  inside the Sculpture. to give it some weight and support.I cover it with alumiumn foil first then do the strips, then add the paper pulp...I enjoy usiing diferent botles as forms because i like them to make a noise, a few dried beans or pop corn makes them sound like a gourd. rice and cat litter work nice too. if the bottle is glass it makes a different sound than a plastic container. people seem to like it when Angels & snowmen  rattle or make a noise. even when i cut the mold from the bottle  i still add something for noise to the hollow form inside.
my preference for strength with strips,  when i'm going to remove a object,  is "brown paper sacks"

Last edited by Folk Art By Connie (2008-11-26 17:48:12)

I wouldn't put polystyrene in amongst the layers.  You are unlikely to get bonding.
Just use thicker paper, kraft (brown bags) being the best.  As said before, use as little paste as it takes to moisten the surface.  The paper will absorb well.
DavidO