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I have been playing wit PM for a while and have learned a lot since finding this wonderful site. I use linseed oil in my mash recipe, but never thought of coating with it for strength. I lnow this sounds silly, but if I coat with linseed oil (boiled) can I still paint with acrylics? I really don't want want to work with oils at this point, because of the cleaning chemicals necessary. I have little ones and work indoors so they really aren't an option.
Thanks so much!!
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I have heard so many negative things about using linseed oil in PM that I've never used it.
Then I looked it up at Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil
and the info there matched some of the info that I had read about. (Okay, Wikipedia isn't perfect, but there's enough there to encourage me to avoid using it.)
Three facts/opinions that deter me:
1. "Like other oil finishes Garden furniture treated with linseed oil may develop mildew. Linseed oil is not completely denatured, so it can encourage rather than discourage mildew growth." (I live in a humid place and have more mold, moss and rot than I like.)
2. "Boiled linseed oil ... Today most products labeled as 'boiled linseed oil' are a combination of raw linseed oil, petroleum-based solvent and metallic dryers." (I'm assuming that this means it rots your brain when used in enclosed areas, and stinks, too.)
3. "Rags dampened with boiled linseed oil are considered a fire hazard ... The oxidation of linseed oil is an exothermic reaction which accelerates as the temperature of the rags increases. If rate of heat accumulation exceeds the rate of dissipation, this reaction may eventually become sufficiently hot to cause spontaneous combustion of the rags. Linseed oil soaked rags should never be stored in an enclosed container." (Of course, maybe the mold will help prevent combustion... )
Mold, spontaneous combustion and petroleum-product stink. What's not to like?
Someone else will have to tell you how it acts with paint. With wood, it seems to be used for a natural finish, and no one has ever mentioned painting after it's been used on wood.
Actually, the fact that it takes so long to dry is enough to give it a 'thumbs down' vote in my book.
Sue
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Thanks for the advice. I too live in a very humid environment, by August you need scuba gear to breath outside... so the mold thing is enough to discourage me. I use it in very small amounts in my mash and haven't had any problems with vapors (that I've noticed, I just thought my children made me stupid LOL).
So I will stick with it as is. I had just read numerous articles that mentioned it as a strengthening agent, and as I'm considering trying my hand at furniture, I was thinking of trying it.
Thanks again for your help! I really love this site and am so glad I ran across it!!
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Have you seen Schmulb's site?
http://schmulb.com/indexen.htm
Sue
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Astounding!! Definately something to aspire too. LOL one day!
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Linseed oil was used in the nineteenth century to waterproof and harden layers of paper. However it was heat and pressure treated and became like a form of hardboard. I have been in a factory where they made linoleum - heat treated linseed oil - and I can assure you that the stench is something awful.
In pulp a small amount can help as a lubricant but, basically, it is not necessary.
DavidO
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