Hi,

what a wonderful project.  Are you making carnivale masks, masquerade or comdedia d'elle arte characters?

It does help if the masks are a good face fit,  casting from the face with modrock (the bandage used in hospitals for casts) is the eastiest way to get an accurate face.  Cover the model's face with vaseline, the lay strips of the wet bandage over the forehead, closed eyelids, nose and cheeks,  for a full face you can either leave nose holes, or use straws for breathing with whilst the cast sets.  You will need about 3-5 layers and it takes approximately 15 mins to set.  Ease the mask off the face and allow to dry thoroughly.

Once dry clean off the vaseline and dry, then varnish with [at least] pva to keep the mould waterproof.  I would recommend that you use the outside of the mask as the mould and start to build up your layers of PM over that. 

For a character such as Punchinello I would mould the nose, eybrows etc in plasticine and then layer the PM over these.  Allow to dry and then add them to the basic mask.  The hollow form will be lighter and quicker to dry than trying to build up solid features from pulp.  I find that both using seperately cast pieces and cardboard armatures allow me to be flexible and move things around on the piece until I am happy with positioning.

A very useful tip given to me by David (dopapier) is to PM your initial structure with either 3 or so layers of paper or a thin pulp.  Once this is dry paint with a coat of PVA, this prevents the base from absorbing moisture from additional PM layers and stops warping and sagging.


If you don't want the hassle of producing a fitted face mask then I suspect that casting onto a balloon, plasticine model or a bought mask (you can get ready made bases from craft shops if you are stuck for time) will give you as effective results.

Best of luck, please post some pictures.
Charlotte

30-50 masks? WOW!  That sounds like fun!  Also time-consuming.

First, from what I've discovered, pulp takes a lot more time to dry than strip layering.  Personally, I would make the basic mask forms with strip layering, then add details with pulp, rather than doing the whole thing with pulp.

I've found that methyl cellulose is the best adhesive, mixed to the consistency of egg white, not thick like school paste.

Having a fan blow over your masks may be the best way to dry them.  But some people have reported good results when drying smaller pieces in a regular kitchen oven at low temperatures (200F or less) with the oven door blocked open a bit to allow moisture to escape.  You just can't use an oven if you're using PVA (white) glue or a plastic form still attached or enclosed inside, due to toxic gases formed by the heated plastics.

Sue

You must of read my mind as I have been thinking the same thing today about the ties and also how to attach feathers to  :?

I have found that a plastic flowerpot is quite good as a drying stand for curved objects,  the holes in the base allow air flow under as well as over the surfaces.

People visiting our house often find odd objects comandeered for PM purposes.  They find the number of disembodied limbs hanging from curtain poles very peculiar :twisted:

Hi again,

Well I did a strip papier mache mask i covered it pva and its been dry about a week, I got some gesso and have just put a coat on but its all started cracking any ideas why please?

it was brought Gesso  :?

thanks for the heads up on the mask ribbons,

I think I will try again this weekend with PM and then leave it for a while and try the gesso again.

newmodeler, you're a real pip! Thanks for all insight into this! I sure learned a lot!

One question though. Where do you buy this modrock stuff? And does it come with instruction?

Perhaps you've finished all the masks??
If not, you might like to make some more moulds.  Here is a possible method that David Svoboda introduced some of us to.  Make some pastry (uncooked!).   Lay it over a willing person's face, pressing it into the contours (and leaving breathing space ha ha).
Over that lay Modrock (or strips of cloth dipped in plaster of paris - you have to work fast).  The plaster dries quickly and the cast will just drop off the face when the person faces downwards.
If you want to use the cast more than once it would probably be sensible to cast plaster of paris into it and then use the positive mould.

To speed the production, press two layers of aluminium foil closely over the mould, apply two layers of paper.  You should then be able to lift it carefully to dry while you get on with the next.  When you apply more layers, it would be sensible to put it back on the mould for firmness.
Let us know what you finally find works best . . . please . . .
DavidO

It could well work to strengthen armature, but I would be wary about using it on it's own. 

Essentially the stuff is a very loose weave bandage, approx a hand span in width, impregnated with plaster of paris.  You soak in water, squeeze out the excess and then apply.  You spread the Plaster of Paris about and through the weave with your hands when applying.  If you have ever had a cast for a broken limb then you may remember what the nurse does when setting the cast.

However the idea of using it in place of masking tape to form a rigid structure is a good one.  It wouldn't work as an instant shape former as it takes at least 10-15 minutes to harden sufficiently to move the form.

Ummmm! you have given me some food for thought.

In the U.S. it's called Plaster Bandage.  You can usually buy it from local medical supply stores. Otherwise, ask your veterinarian. Mine will get it for me.

You can use it as an armature, but it's not tremedously strong, and it probably won't take certain kinds of stresses.  But for some things it's great.

If you intend to put PM over it when it's dry/cured, you'll have to waterproof it first.  Regular acrylic paint will do fine, but you've got to cover EVERY hole and crack. But make sure it is fully cured/dry before you paint it.

Sue