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Hello,
so far all my experiments with PM have been using the layering technique, however I don't know that this will work for the new project I have in mind. I want to try and make a Snow Queen figure and I am struggling with moulding the head.
I have just made a plasticine model that I have cast in plaster to make a mould. I was thinking of making pulp and pressing it into the mould. However I am beginning to get cold feet about this, as I am not convinced that my casting was good enough (although it will be about a week before I will find out)
Can I make a form and press pulp over it instead?
How do I make the pulp easier to sculpt?
Any suggestions would be gratefully recieved.
Best,
Charlotte
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I would find something slightly smaller than the final head you want to make and use it as a permanent foundation, building with pulp on top of it. You could use one of those head-sized play balls that are really more like heavy-duty balloons, but they stay inflated much, much longer, which you would need. Or you might be able to use a plastic jug, a 2-liter soda bottle, or some kind of plastic container from a thrift shop.
Don't try using a regular balloon, as it will deflate before the pulp dries.
And if your foundation is plastic, you can't dry it in the oven, as the plastic will produce toxic gases. But placing in front of a small fan would be perfectly safe to increase the drying speed.
Others may disagree, but I would not use PVA (white) glue with a project like this. I would use methyl cellulose-based wallpaper paste as my adhesive of choice, as it will allow moisture to gradually wick out of the pulp, where PVA tends to form a skin which delays or prevents drying inside.
Once you get your head as you like it, allow it to dry for a while, and when it is sort of leathery, burnish the surface with the back of a spoon to smooth it. This will cut down on the sanding considerably when it is dry.
Sue
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Thanks,
I have a pulp recipe from an old book that includes linseed oil, oil of cloves and pva. My kitchen smelt terrible for days, and the pulp ending up in the bin. After that first disastrous experiment I haven't had the courage to try since.
However since exploring this site I am feeling a little more confident and plan to have another go.
Thanks for the ideas for the armature, I have wondered if florists oasis block (the green crumbly stuff) might make a good base for the head to be moulded over, as I can carve it first. I see some people use polystyrene but I hate the stuff.
I will post the WIP as it goes and see what people think.
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Maybe crumbled up foil? Although, I've found paste doesn't stick well to foil, so not sure what mix you'd need (glue, methy, whatever).
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If you were sculpting the head first in Plasticene, why not stay with that method?
Sculpt the head and cover it closely with clingfilm. Layer paper over it - newspaper thickness, about four to six layers. When dry, cut it into two halves and remove the plasticene. Depending on the neck aperture, you might be able to pull the plasticene out from the bottom without cutting your laminate.
If you have to cut it, rejoin it with an edging of glue and a couple more layers on the outside.
(See my tutorial on making the blue tit)
If you want it stronger, push some pasted paper (only a smear) onto the inside and press it firmly.
DavidO
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Hi,
I had wondered about doing it that way, I was concerned that I would lose the fine detailing that I had carved into the head. The dolls in the gallery are paper layered around plasticine but I assumed that I would struggle with finer forms. I suppose that experimenting is the way to go.
Has anyone tried Martin's fine finish mache? How easy is it to sculpt?
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When most people make a model from clay, they cast the model in plaster or other mold material, then remove the clay, let the mold cure, and press the mache into the mold. That way, you should get a duplicate of your original clay model. This is not a high-speed endeavor, though.
You could also lay several layers of strip mache over a head-sized balloon and let it dry completely. Coat it with a layer or two of shellac (dries in about half an hour per coat). Use that as a firm base for your pulp, and make the features directly on the form. This is faster than using a mold.
If you omit the shellac, your 'firm' PM form will absorb moisture and start collapsing as you work.
I was in a dollar store yesterday and found some large plastic 2-piece Easter eggs, about 8-9" long. I got two of them, thinking that I could cement them together and build on top of them with PM for a head or ?
Sue
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Thank you very much
I am experimenting with plaster cast mould, it is drying at the moment and should be ready to be inveiled in the next couple of days. As it is the first time I have done this since college ceramics lessons, hmmmm years ago! I don't know how it will turn out.
Out of interest has anyone in the UK been able to buy shellac. I tried a couple of years ago for something else I was making and got blanks alround from most of the places I tried. Is this something that has gone the way of Cow Gum, which I was recently told is now illegal.
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My daughter tells me she used shellac last year on her school project. So you stand a chance of finding some. My daughter also tells me its very smelly and you can't get it off your nails for a week. :shock: .
Sue.
Just looked at the net and put in ( Shellac suppliers uk ) and there are lots of suppliers on there.
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I regularly use a fine pulp mix, similar to the one Martin describes. You have to aim to make the finished object as perfect as possible. It helps to burnish the surface several times while it is drying.
Being fibrous, it won't cut really cleanly but can be sanded. The best way I have found is using a grinding tool in a Dremel. This seems to polish the surface and can help model it at the same time.
I am considering buying an engraving tool because I think that should work for fine detail. Has anyone tried that method?
DavidO
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David, I have considered trying that sometime. I think you might be able to get a fine tip like that to fit your Dremel, although it will rotate and the engraver I used to have seemed to go up and down.
If you try it, please let us know.
Sue
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I have just lifted the head out of the plaster block and the cast looks usuable, I can't see any air bubbles of cracks. I will cure it for a couple of weeks and then cast pulp in it. As an experiment I am following David's suggestion of layering over the plasticine model as it came out of the cast nice and cleanly.
I have used the paper layering method initially as this is the one that I am most comfortable and adept with. However how many layers do you think I should put on before cutting it off the mould?
The head is approximately 4 cm diameter, and 5 1/2 cm high. I have put about four layers on that are now nearly dry. I want it fine detailed enough to be able to apply Martin's porcelain finish pulp but strong enough to cope with removal and reassembly.
Oh, I nearly forgot, has anyone cast papiermache over a stockinette body form?
Charlotte
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The laminating layer over the plasticene only needs to be firm enough to remove and hold its shape sufficient for your needs. I would say a minimum of four layers (newspaper type), six to be a bit extra firm.
Bear in mind that when you apply any pulp to the surface, it will moisten - and therefore temporarily weaken - the first stage. You can help ease the resultant problems by i) painting a layer of neat PVA (white glue); ii) keeping your pulp as dry as possible consistent with manageable texture; iii) perhaps adding some more layers from the inside, once it is off the plasticene and the two halves firmly joined.
Reinforcing from the inside - one method would be to lay some PVA on a gloss sheet (plastic, glass etc.); lay some soft toilet paper over it, cover with plastic and roll it down hard so that the paste is absorbed. Peel it off and press it into the cavities.
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