Thanks so much, Eric. I really appreciate your ideas.

I am not quite sure what you mean by sewing the corrugated cardboards on the GI rings, and the urns do need to be tapered at the bottom (the base will need to be about 30 inches). Do you think it might work to use chicken wire as a frame, covered with newspaper?Or maybe that's too flimsy. Thanks again for the help.

I've been puzzling how to do this since I first read your post.

There is only one way that I can think of, it's theoretical, it will take some time, effort and a lot of cardboard, but I think it might work. 

Determine exactly how large the urns have to be, esp the distance from the actors' knees to their necks.  The height at which the actors will be kneeling should not be on the ground, but maybe a foot (30cm) or more  above the ground.

I hope you have access to a lot of large pieces of flat cardboard, as from furniture or mattress dealers.

Here's the idea:  Patch some paper together so you have one piece that is big enough to draw exactly one-half the silhouette of your urn. 
xxx     Use it to draw copies on your cardboard, maybe 20 of them (?).
xxxx   Get some kind of rigid tubing as tall as the urn, cardboard or PVC
xxxxx  pipe, 4-6"(10-15cm) diameter.  Use hot glue to stick the long edge
xxxxx   of the cardboard to the tube, like wings or flanges.  Put the first
xxxxx   two opposite each other, the next two in between those, the
xxxx     next four in between those, etc, so they all fan out evenly from
xxxx     the center tube.  It would probably help to strengthen & stabilize
            the urn if you made a circle of cardboard (maybe 2 or 3 layers thick) the size of the urn base, and glued the urn 'skeleton' to that.

This whole cardboard piece is just a form to build on, so it doesn't matter if you slop the glue.  Just try to get them all vertical.

Once that is done, wrap the entire 'skeleton' with plastic.  Any kind, patched and taped is fine, as long as the whole thing is covered.

Then start applying large strips of newspaper over the whole thing (except the top, of course  ).  Diagonal might be best.  Make them as wide as you can without creating wrinkles.  Be sure to overlap them.

Whatever adhesive you use (non-vinyl wallpaper paste, cooked flour/water, or cooked rice flour/water), make it quite thin*.  If, by some miracle, you have access to methylcellulose, use that, but make it THIN.

:!: Some people think thick PM paste is best -- it isn't.  It's glue, not cement mortar.  Thick paste takes forever to dry.  And don't use white PVA glue.  Trust me. :!:

Try to keep your layers even.  If going diagonally works, go around the whole thing in one direction, and then start diagonally in the opposite direction for the next layer.  Once you've got a good firm shell (maybe three layers?) and it dries, cut it off the skeleton.  Use a sharp box knife and slice it between the ribs from top to bottom, on opposite sides so you have two halves.  Handle it VERY carefully -- it's very fragile!!! 

Patch up the plastic again where you cut it, and use the skeleton to start your people making urn #2.

Carefully match the cut edges of the two urn halves and patch them together with more PM strips.  I'm sure you'll need a couple of helpers for this.

I know nothing of stage props.  If the backs of these urns need to be open, now is the time to make the openings.  Cut out an upside-down U as appropriate.  You should know at what height the actors will be kneeling (from the ground).  I wouldn't cut below this level, to provide support for the rest of the urn, and to keep the urn from spreading apart or twisting.

Measure the diameter of the inside of the urn at the actors' kneeling level.  Make a cardboard circle that size and make SURE it fits.  (Make two copies for urns 2 & 3.)  You know the slotted cardboard that they use in crates of wine bottles, to keep the bottles from rattling against each other?  Make some to fit between the floor and the circles to support the actors.  Make several copies of the flat circles to cover them.

Again start applying more paper strips to the urn.  You'll probably need at least 6 to 8 layers, or even more.  Put a neat layer or two over the top rim of the urn, then cover those strips under the edge to blend them in with the existing strips.  Also put strips over the edges of the back opening for the actor, for added strength.

When you think you've got enough layers of PM, let it dry in a warm, dry place.

When it's dry, you can apply a base coat to start smoothing out the surface.  To help fill in the irregularities in the surface, I would get some cheap latex or acrylic wall paint (flat, not shiny), and add some Calcium Carbonate** (aka whiting, aka ground chalk) to it.  I don't know how much you would add to a liter or gallon of paint.  Add a quarter of a cup, mix it well, then test it on the back of the urn.  If it's not thick enough, keep adding more until it looks like it will cover most of the flaws without leaving brush marks.  (This is called Poor Man's Gesso)

Let me insert here that the finish won't be like porcelain, so I wouldn't suggest that you aim for a solid color, esp with a glossy finish***.  To fool the eye regarding the rougher texture of the urn, you have 3 options:
1.  A busy pattern (time-consuming);
2.  A mottled pattern of 2 or 3 agreeable shades or colors, sponged to blend into each other;
3.  A rough texture applied thickly enough to hide the PM joints.

If you go with Number 2, I would suggest that you make two as similar as you can, then color the third one something harmonious, but an obviously different color.  Place the different one between the other two; without the two being side by side, they won't be so easy to compare.

When the surface is done, give it a layer or two of MATTE varnish if you want to keep them.  If they will be disposed of after the play, don't bother.

After all this, you get to make two more, using the cardboard skeleton.

If Jackie or anyone sees any big flaws in this idea, jump in right away!

* For some good paste recipes, see http://www.woodblock.com/encyclopedia/e … 13_02.html

** Check with a place that carries pottery supplies, clays & glazes, etc.  If they've got it or can get it, it should be quite cheap.  When you're asking about it, give them ALL the names -- they may only recognize one of them.

*** A glossy, one-color finish will make very flaw stand out.

Sue

Yeah wow!... hats off to Sue... I think you already got it covered Kristin... I'll throw in a couple of old phone books (and a pillow?) at the base of the urn just to keep it a bit sturdy and comfortable for the actors... when will the play be April 13th?... still got time. Let us know if you have problems while doing the urns... how about Happy Days for your next play?... Old Sam rules!... good luck... Eric

Thanks, Eric and Sue. I really appreciate all the ideas! I'll think I'll try the chicken wire tomorrow and see what happens. I'll be sure to let you know how it goes--and if I need more help! Oh, and I'm in Wisconsin. But you're right--there aren't enough people here who know how great Beckett's work is! And I'll keep Happy Days in mind for next time!