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I have two paper shredders that I bought to shred cloth (i.e., recycling cotton clothes to make rag paper). The little one cost about $12 and the big one, purportedly able to shred CDs as well as paper, about $20. (The big one has not even shred paper very well; I think it was a return from someone who tried to shred a boxed CD set!)
Theoretically, rag pulp is supposed to be beaten for a long time in a special machine, which I don't have, and the pre-pulp rags are preferably not cut into pieces that are too small because the fiber may be too short. That is also the theoretical objection to blending the rag pulp rather than beating it. But without a beater it's virtually impossible to pulp rags unless they start as practically threads, so the confetti-type shredder works really well.
Similiarly, many of the papier mache pulp recipes I've come across stress tearing the paper--some say because it absorbs more water, others because it preserves the fiber. But these same recipes go on to suggest blenders. Doesn't this offset any advantage tearing might have over cutting? Or does it really make a difference in the first stage, before the wet pieces get to a blender?
All that was a complex setup to ask: has anyone tried making mache pulp from paper run through a shredder?
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I would say it depends on your shredder. I shred paper constantly, and the edges of the shredded paper don't look like their cut in actuality. Although, I really can't talk since I don't use my shredder to shred paper for paper mache. My shredder's used to shred colored paper so I can make my stars.
But honestly, I would say it depends on the shredder.
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Mine are both electric office shredders that reduce paper to very small curls. The smaller one requires paper to be folded or torn first since its throat is about half the width of a standard paper sheet; this tends to make the curls even smaller.
Size-wize, these curls would be ideal for making mache pulp, but I was wondering about the "rip not cut" edict.
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Well that also depends, do the curls have smooth edges or are the edges a little rough and feel like they were torn? smooth edges might not help much. otherwise, I think it would be fine. but I've never worked with shredded paper in paper mache projects, so I can't be sure entirely. I say give it a shot! ^0^
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I THINK she is looking for a binder that hardens the PM without shrinking, probably leaving a smoother surface. And maybe one that doesn't harden as fast, and doesn't chip.
Wouldn't we all!
I haven't tried it yet, but Jonni Good's Paper Mache Clay recipe seems to produce some good results using pre-mixed joint compound from the hardware store.
Her recipe:
* Cheap toilet paper (measure the wet paper pulp, and use 1 1/4 cups – some rolls contain more paper than needed)
* 1 cup Joint compound from the hardware store (get premixed “regular,†that comes in a plastic tub, not the dry powder form.) (Not sure what Joint compound is, or what it’s called in your country? click here.) Note: buy any brand except DAP. The DAP brand does not work.
* 3/4 cup Elmer’s Glue-all (PVA glue)
* 1/2 cup White Flour
* 2 tablespoons Linseed Oil or Mineral Oil (Linseed oil contains chemicals, so mineral oil is a better choice if you’re working with kids, or if you like to get your hands in the clay)
http://www.ultimatepapermache.com/paper-mache-clay
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