How thick do you want the tile? 

I don't think I'd suggest making a solid tile.  Not unless you had to make it with a pulp mache. 

I'd suggest making the tile out of cardboard and the a layer of strip paper mache over that.  (or, even simpler, just cut them out of wood?) ...  If you want a thicker tile you don't have to make it solid.  put a couple of spacers in between the top and bottom sheets of cardboard and then mache. 

The problem I see is warping, which is why wood might be easier.  (Or embrace it the warping and go with it.) 

Anyone else have anti-warping secrets?  Or other ideas?

-- Beth

'I have made endless name plates'???   Could that be very numerous or exceedingly long???  lol

I was thinking about 1cm thick, I'm hoping for a chunky look. 

I don't have access to bits of wood, I'm hoping to do this out of whatever I can get for free, but I like the idea & I'll keep my eye out for scraps for future projects. 

I'll give the cardboard idea a try & let you know how I get on.

Thanks for some great ideas!

thanks trixy - do you have facebook?  I'd love to see your results when you're done.

Anyone want to add me, just put "papier mache" in the message so I know you're a real person ;-) & search for kotinka kay.

Kotinka - I'll post pics and show you when I'm done.  I just need to get off my lazy butt and make some pulp so I can get started.

Oh, that's a great idea, Sue!

I'm getting conflicting advice from some of my reading on using a mold.  In my internet search, I've seen where a releasing agent is placed on the "outside" of a bowl before applying paper mache, but I just finished reading in the 'The Art and Craft of Papier Mache' by Juliet Bawden to use the "inside" of the mold.  She does address using the outside, but advises that for a more advanced person who will cut the paper mache off and rejoin it subsequently.

"The smoothest surface should be the one next to the bowl itself."

David didn't elaborate, but this may be important to you.  Which side of your papier mache (PM) bowl will be the most visible for your intended use, the inside or the outside? If you want a smooth outside, applying your PM to the inside of the bowl may be best.  But as David said, as it dries, it will pull away and may warp if you don't fasten it to the rim as he said.

The material the mold bowl is made from may determine if you need to use a release:  many adhesives don't stick to plastic very well, so you may not need anything if that is the material you're working on.  Glass, metal or wood will need a release.

If you want to use the outside of the bowl, you might have to cut it loose, which I don't consider a huge problem:  just cut a seam down one side of the bowl until you can release it (don't cut the bowl in half!), then use either more PM strips to fasten it back together (inside and out), or more pulp, or if it's thick enough, just glue.

The more moisture you add to your PM, the more it will shrink as it dries, so use as little as you can.  Wetter is NOT better.  The more it shrinks, the more likely the PM will pull apart, either with strips or pulp.  Use the least amount of water, and press or burnish the PM as you apply it.  Take your time and smooth it down firmly for best results.

If you want to do a large bowl, try a small one first, as an experiment.  Use a similar material as what you will be using on the larger one (plastic, glass, metal, wood, whatever).  Not only will you get a feel for what you're doing, you'll learn what works and what doesn't.

Sue