All the coffee grinders that I have seen are quite small. Using dry paper on them probably burns out the motor.

There are two other electric units that might work for you.

One is a food processor (here is an example of one: http://www.ehow.com/how_16278_food-processor.html), but you MUST use water.  Soak your paper overnight, then put a handful of the pulp in the food processor, with at least twice as much water as you have paper pulp. Maybe even three or four times as much. It depends on the paper.

Another useful tool would be a strong electric mixer/beater (it should be at least 300 watts) like this http://www.decuisine.co.uk/cookshop/ele … 175541201.  These mixers are usually expensive ($200-400USD) but they can sometimes be found used. I found a no-name brand mixer that was really a handheld mixer with a really stupid, cheap holder and bowl.  But the mixer could be disingaged from the holder and was 300 watts for only $30, and works just fine for papier mache.

But if you use either of these, it is IMPERATIVE that you use a goodly amount of water. Any time the motor seems to be working too hard, add more water. It should be quite soupy to make good pulp.

When you have a nice, soupy, liquified batch of pulp, take a square of window screening (no frame) and fold it into a cone shape, and set it into a deep container (a bucket is good).  Pour your pulp into it.  If too much pulp seems to be straining through the screen, put two pieces together and fold them into one cone for a finer sieve.

Then you can either use the pulp immediately, refrigerate it for a few days, freeze it, or spread it out to dry until it's brittle, and put it away for future use. Never add any adhesive until you're ready to start work on a project.

Sue

I used a coffee grinder for a time but soon gave up - it wasn't strong enough for the job.  Now I only use a Bosch drill with a paint mixer attachment.  This is like a multi-bladed propeller.
As Sue says, have plenty of water.  The blade must be able to move easily and not get stuck.
I boil torn paper for about five minutes, leave it to soak and then put some in a bucket with plenty of water to blitz with the drill.
I squeeze most of the water out and then lay the pulp in 'biscuits' on a non rusting metal mesh in the sun to dry completely.  This will store for years if necessary.
When I come to use it, I soak the biscuit in water for 15 seconds.  It will then break up easily.  Adding the paste I mash it thoroughly with a fork until smooth.  Then add ground chalk and perhaps a small amount of boiled linseed oil for extra smoothness.
The result is like a smooth clay which I can model down to 1mm.
David
The Ozzard of Wiz

When you soak the paper and then run it through the food processor or beater, it WILL be thin. But it also breaks down the fibers so they are quite fine. Pouring the liquid through a fairly fine sieve and letting it drain will catch most of the fibers, and it will be like a fine mush.

When you add water to the dried biscuits, you have pulp almost immediately, as soon as it absorbs the water.

David, does the paint mixer you use look like this? http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us … Mixer+Bit+

I had heard much about using those for PM, so I bought one, put it on my drill, stuck it in the bucket of pulp, and turned it on. What a disappointment! The bucket was on the floor and I was looking straight down the shaft, into the bucket, and saw..... an empty vortex with nothing in it, surrounded by spinning pulp. There was virtually no interaction between the blades and the torn paper at all. I opened up my new 300-watt food mixer and stuck that into the wet paper. WOW! What a difference!  You can even use quite a bit less water.

Then I found that someone online agreed with me (surprise!). He said that it doesn't work well because the paint mixer blades were designed for liquids, and water with paper in it, no matter how fine, cannot be described as a liquid.

Mixer blades, PVA, I guess we are just born to differ.

Sue